The old downtown of Bordeaux has been cleaned and polished. The tram system is superb – handsome, quiet and frequent. This is a paddling pool on the water front that’s about the size of a football field.
Cafes and brasseries everywhere – more foie gras than you can shake a stick at.
Musee d’Art Contemporain de Bordeaux – stunning building. It was built in the 19th century as a customs and excise warehouse for goods entering France through the port. It fell out of use as the waterfront developed and came close to being demolished in the ’70s. It was rescued by a number of local citizens and became the museum it is now in the mid-’80s.
Not surprisingly, this puppy didn’ t last long. I can leave Bordeaux now at peace … Oh wait, what about the Paulliac …
Get there early, expect to wait and wait and wait to pay lots and lots and lots, prepare to rub shoulders (hips, knees, any and all extremities) with your fellow humanity. Once in a lifetime, meaning never again.
Go figure …
W was chopping celery to make a soup stock – the aroma caught my attention from across the room. The produce here is bursting with flavor – the garlic has a musty tone that’s just … just … slurp. We have a butcher 3 doors down on the street, W was buying beef for Boeuf Bourguignon. The butcher was getting frustrated, we realized after the event, because W was trying to buy too good of a cut of beef. He relented and took what was proffered. Eating it was a light-bulb moment – despite being the cheapest cut of beef the butcher had – it just melted in the mouth (ugh cliche). I could live in this town … if W’s cooking …
Le Marais has seen a resurgence of the Paris Jewish community of late, alongside a strong Chinese community in the northern part and the growing Gay community in the southwestern portion. Great people watching from just about any cafe you care to park in.
